As a concept, cleansing is a straightforward act — a routine that rids the skin of impurities to create a blank canvas. It is an afterthought, due to its nature as a “rinse-off”, and a mere precursor to the skincare formulations that actually benefit the skin. However, in reality, cleansing is a far more impactful skincare step, and one that can significantly positively (or negatively) transform the skin.
A great face wash or cleanser does more than just setting up the rest of your products for success — it deeply cleanses without removing protective proteins and lipids, impacting the skin microbiome, or shifting pH levels. A balancing act, more than anything, cleansers take on the difficult task of cleaning, moisturizing, and maintaining a level skin ecosystem.
Approaching cleansing simply as a mindless act is actually detrimental to our skin. Rather, a cleanser should be considered just as important as other skincare products we use such as serums and moisturizers with a similar potential for impact. In response to this popular perception, a majority of cleansers on the market lack the essential ingredients that can truly enhance the skin - active ingredients.
When active ingredients enter the picture, in the recommended dosage, a skincare product significantly shifts in impact. Actives have specific functions and address specific concerns like helping hydrate dry skin, supporting cellular turnover to uncover brighter skin, maintaining a healthy skin biome and preventing acne and breakouts. Some common active ingredients include Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Antioxidants, Retinoids, and Ceramides.
In order for any skincare product to be impactful it needs to have (1) ingredients that are scientifically proven to work (2) these efficacious ingredients included in quantities where they are proven to work. Usually we see maximum active ingredients in serums which are considered the most potent of a typical skincare line up and the minimum number of active ingredients in face washes and cleansers.
No skincare product gets more face time than a face wash. We saw an opportunity to create a best-in-class face cleanser that delivers on what consumers want (cleansing + hydration) as well as the integration of active ingredients that positively impact the skin during and long after a cleanser is washed off.
We prepared a snapshot of what is currently available in the market and reviewed the active ingredients found in best-selling and popular Face Cleansers.
Our goal is to illustrate that in general, cleansers contain more ingredients to help cleanse and foam, than ingredients to positively improve the skin. And this type of formulation goes on to further substantiate the perception that cleansers do not positively improve the skin. And popular perception about cleansers further signals to the market that people do not value and will not pay for good cleansers. We wanted to expose this cycle (and break it).
Drunk Elephant No. 9 Jelly Cleanser:
YTTP Superfood Antioxidant Cleanser:
Tatcha The Rice Wash Skin-Softening Cleanser:
Fresh Soy Hydrating Gentle Cleanser:
Augustinus Bader The Cream Cleanser Gel:
SK-II Facial Treatment Cleanser:
Within the products we reviewed, there was no direct correlation between the % of actives and price point — i.e. a higher price did not result in a higher number of actives. What does this mean? Well, as far luxury skincare brands go, paying a premium does not always mean it's worth it (check out our review of luxury skincare brands that are worth the splurge).
Note: Our focus above was in the general “number” of active ingredients only. However, given we were not involved in the formulation of these products, there is no way to really know the scientific evidence for these “active” ingredients, nor do we know whether or not they were used in the recommended “dosage”.
We formulated The Abundance Plumping Phytoceramide Cleanser with a proprietary blend of 18 active ingredients and potent performance-driven botanicals for a cleanser that delivers huge benefits in spite of being a rinse-off product. For best results, the Abundance Cleanser is used as a mini-mask when left on for at least 30 seconds on the skin for the active ingredients to fully express themselves and leaves your skin visibly and immediately softer and more dewy.
While each of actives in this formula have specific and impactful functions, a few stand out:
For quick reference, a conclusive list of active ingredients found in the Abundance Plumping PhytoCeramide Cleanser are: Hyaluronic acid, Bromelain, Kaolin clay Diospyros, Kaki Fruit (Persimmon) extract, Niacinamide, Pineapple ceramides, Phalaenopsis Amabilis Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter), Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Artocarpus Lakoocha (Monkey fruit) Wood Extract, Pelvetia Canaliculata (Seaweed) Extract, Luffa Cylindria (luffa) Fruit.
The Abundance Plumping PhytoCeramide Cleanser is our reaction to a huge gap in the existing market of harsh cleansers that compromise the skin barrier or gentle cleansers that do nothing else. There is a missed opportunity to make the simple step of cleansing the skin - a transformative one.
