Toners are (literally) like the middle child of skincare - often underappreciated but incredibly valuable if utilized correctly. Traditionally, they were introduced to remove residue from the then norm of harsh cleansers or to restore the skin’s pH after cleansing at a time when cleansers were very alkaline and would leave the skin dry and irritated.
Today, with more cleansers stepping up, and becoming pH balanced (as they should!), traditional toners can feel like a redundant step. Hence, toners are evolving - taking up new forms and functions.
Today, “toner” as a skincare product category simply alludes to the light, water-like texture of a skincare product that is typically used after a cleanser and before a serum or moisturizer, and may or may not be used everyday.
One form of Toners are acids, of which alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are the most common. Although the word acid may suggest something sinister, face acids are among the best researched molecules that can really enrich the efficacy of a skincare regimen when used correctly. These acids allow for a targeted and nonabrasive removal of the dead skin cells.
Cellular turnover is the process of new cells replacing existing cells. In our skin, this process is critical to maintaining smooth, supple, brighter skin. The cellular turnover process is highest in children with their new cells replacing their old cells in 14 days. Cellular turnover both slows down and becomes more inefficient with time. The cellular turnover process at the age of 40, is 30 - 40 days.
This age-related decline manifests as dullness, flakiness, and a rough skin texture.
While physical exfoliants are believed to support the removal of dead skin, they are not so efficient and the process can cause scratches or micro-tears on the skin’s surface. On the other hand, chemical exfoliation with face acids (AHA and BHA) breaks down the “glue” like lipids that hold dead skin cells together. Once these bonds dissolve, dead skin sheds easily allowing for newer, brighter, smoother and more evenly pigmented skin to emerge. This can help reduce acne, acne marks, pigmentation and fine lines, visibly smoothing out the skin almost immediately. In addition, the practice of regularly using a chemical exfoliant, can thicken the epidermis and boost collagen production to help plump the skin.
Today, acids are incorporated in all kinds of skincare product categories including cleansers, serums and toners. The type of acid, the percentage of the acid used and the pH of the product itself, can further influence the level of exfoliation. More potent acid treatments are delivered from the office of an experienced esthetician or board-certified dermatologist.
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) is a water-soluble acid derived from natural substances. Popular AHAs include glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane), lactic acid (derived from dairy or fermented vegetables) and mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds).
AHAs are known for their ability to trigger cell renewal, to exfoliate the skin’s surface, to promote a smoother and more even skin texture and to clear pores keeping acne at bay.
AHAs are particularly beneficial for dry or sun-damaged skin, as they help retain moisture and reduce the appearance of fine lines. They can be found in various strengths and formulations including cleansers, toners, peel pads, chemical peels and serums.
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) is oil-soluble and works below the skin’s surface to clear clogged pores. Salicylic acid, the most common BHA, is derived from the bark of white willow and winter green leaves. BHAs penetrate deeply into the skin, reducing inflammation and preventing breakouts and thus are a favorite for oily and acne-prone skin types. BHAs are particularly useful in targeting blackheads and whiteheads while calming redness. BHAs can also be found in various strengths and formulations including cleansers, toners, serums, peel pads, chemical peels and spot treatments.
Gently exfoliates the skin’s surface, removing dead cells and revealing smoother, brighter skin.
Reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
Hydrates the skin by improving its ability to retain moisture.
Eg. Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Citric Acid
Cleopatra was known to bathe in sour milk which is one source of Lactic Acid (a gentler and more hydrating AHA).
AHAs trigger the skin’s own process of cellular turnover, and frequent usage has been found to be an effective anti-aging treatment. In 2015, a study in Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity found that limited (not constant) exposure to Lactic Acid prevents aging-associated mitochondrial dysfunction and decline and improves other markers of aging in the skin cells.
Penetrates deeper into the pores to remove excess oil and unclog debris.
Reduces acne, blackheads, and the appearance of large pores and controls sebum production.
Calms redness, making it ideal for sensitive, acne-prone skin.
Eg. Salicylic Acid
Note: AHAs and BHAs largely offer similar benefits and both types of acids do not need to be incorporated into your skincare regimen.
Given these acids exfoliate the skin, a higher concentration or very frequent usage, can strip away the outermost layer of skin cells. The skin barrier plays a crucial role in protecting the skin and a compromised barrier leaves the skin more vulnerable to dryness, irritation and sensitivity.
An overuse of any kind of exfoliant, physical or chemical, can leave the skin vulnerable to irritation, dryness, sensitivity and increased water loss - disrupting the skin’s ability to retain moisture and defence against environmental aggressors.
There is also variation within AHAs - for example, glycolic acid has a low molecular weight and hence penetrates deeper into the skin but can also be more irritating, which can in turn trigger post inflammatory hyperpigmentation in some skin types (especially with more melanin-rich skin).
Most products contain AHA concentrations of up to 10% in over-the-counter products, and BHAs in concentrations of up to 2%, ensuring safety while delivering effective exfoliation. However, in recent years, the Drunk Elephant BabyFacial and the Ordinary Peel have boasted 30% AHA/BHA combinations which is a high concentration which should only be administered under the guidance of a dermatologist. In Canada, regulations allow AHA concentrations of under 18% with a pH of 3.5 however no comparable regulation exists in the United States to protect consumers from the dangers of overdosing on exfoliants.
AHA and BHA products should not be used with more than the recommended frequency and in general, should not be used daily giving your skin time to heal between use (Skin Cycling). This is especially important as in a skincare routine, multiple products such as cleansers, toners and serums, especially from different brands, may contain AHAs or BHAs individually, skyrocketing the chances of over-exfoliation if combined incorrectly.
While AHA and BHA toners are highly effective, they don’t always play well when they are formulated with certain ingredients:
Retinoids: Combining acids with retinol or other Vitamin A products can increase the risk of irritation as both of these are exfoliating agents. (Skin Cycling)
Vitamin C: Using acids and vitamin C together can destabilize the ingredients and make them less effective.
Physical Exfoliants: These can cause microabrasions in the skin and disrupt the skin barrier, increasing the chances of irritation
Known Irritants: Fragrance, essential oils and denatured alcohols can aggravate the skin further
Tip: Always patch-test new products by applying a small quantity behind the ear and observing for 24 to 48 hours for any redness or irritation.
Ideally, a chemical exfoliant can be supported by ingredients that support cellular turnover and soothe any irritation caused by use of the AHA BHA.
Motif’s Renew Resurfacing Peptide Toner combines the benefits of a chemical exfoliant and a Peptide-infused serum, and is designed to work for all skin types. It contains a potent dosage of ingredients such as lactic acid, mandelic acid, and malic acid to stimulate exfoliation, balanced with pea peptides to reduce hyperpigmentation, and soothing, hydrating agents such as date seed extract. The Renew Toner delivers instantaneous results. It can be used up to twice weekly for an overnight glow-up waking up to fresh, smooth and radiant in the morning.
It is best to restrict the use of AHA BHA products at night. While using an AHA BHA product, ensure the skin is kept moisturized and is always followed by SPF, because AHA BHA and any kind of chemical exfoliation or chemical peel makes the skin more vulnerable to the sun.
Both.
AHA BHA toners are powerful tools on your journey to a clear, smooth, radiant complexion. These are ingredients backed by decades of research that can be immensely helpful for your skin - in moderation. By understanding how they work and using them correctly, you can effectively target your specific skin concerns.
