Our skin is in a constant state of renewal.
Every day, millions of skin cells are born and millions of skin cells are shed in a process known as desquamation. The skin’s natural exfoliation cycle typically takes about 28 days in younger individuals, but as we age, this process slows down significantly.
How to Exfoliate?
Dead skin cells accumulate on the surface, leading to a dull complexion, rough texture, clogged pores, and uneven tone. Face exfoliators help speed up this renewal process by removing the outer layer of dead skin cells and promoting the emergence of fresher, healthier skin. Regular exfoliation also promotes better absorption of skincare products and evens out the skin tone.
For exfoliation to be effective (and safe), choosing the right process, frequency, and approach is essential.
Understanding the right exfoliation techniques and products for your skin type can make all the difference. Let’s explore the benefits of exfoliation, the different types of exfoliation available, and how to achieve a healthy, radiant glow—without overdoing it!
What does an Exfoliating Scrub do?
Throughout history and across cultures, people have used various ingredients to exfoliate their skin. From body brushes, exfoliating gloves or mitts, and washcloths, to natural exfoliating scrub ingredients like coffee grounds, oats, sugar, ground seeds, and even crushed walnut shells - we are no strangers to the process of skin exfoliation of our face and bodies.
With advancements in skincare, we now have two primary categories of exfoliation available to us: physical exfoliation and chemical exfoliation.
Physical Exfoliation Scrubs
Physical exfoliation involves manually sloughing off dead skin cells using scrubs, brushes, or other textured tools. Face scrubs with exfoliant particles are popular for their immediate smoothing effect and improved circulation due to the massaging motion.
However, as stated by Rodan et al, while physical exfoliation induces an immediate desquamation, it can also temporarily disrupt the skin barrier, resulting in increased trans-epidermal water loss (TWL) resulting in the skin feeling dry, flaky, or irritated. And the type of exfoliant particles used, matters significantly, in terms of their benefits and potential side effects.
Sugar Scrubs and Exfoliant Particles
Historically, one of the most popular exfoliating scrubs in the market was the St Ives Apricot Scrub. These scrubs most often contain up-cycled food waste such as ground shells and seeds. Other common exfoliant particles include sugar granules, salt coffee grounds, oatmeal, etc. They are used in DIY masks and often go viral.
When looking at crushed walnut or apricot shells under a microscope, these particles contain jagged edges. Rubbing these particles on the skin can cause microtears in the skin, leading to irritation and increased sensitivity.
In the exfoliating scrub hierarchy, particles with smooth, non-jagged edges are supreme. Jojoba esters (created in the lab) provide a gentler alternative as they are perfectly spherical, with a smooth surface, offering effective exfoliation without damage. Another option is Luffa fruit, another natural exfoliant, which is a fibrous material that helps remove dead skin cells sustainably. Under a microscope, these are long fibers that rub against the skin as opposed to scratching the skin.
Mechanical exfoliation is often preferred in the initial stages when there is significant buildup requiring higher concentrations of acids. When using physical scrubs, it's essential to exert an abundance of caution, as over-exfoliating, aggressive scrubbing, or using harsh abrasives can damage the skin barrier, leading to irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity.
Motif’s Abundance Plumping PhytoCeramide Cleanser is formulated with soft Luffa fibers and Bromelain - the natural exfoliating enzymes from Pineapples, allowing gentle exfoliation without irritation.
Chemical Exfoliants (e.g. Exfoliating Toners)
Chemical exfoliants exfoliate the skin, penetrating the skin at different levels and are mainly classified as:
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AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): Water-soluble acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid help to brighten and smooth the skin’s surface.
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BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids): Oil-soluble acids like salicylic acid penetrate deeper into pores, making them ideal for acne-prone and oily skin types.
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PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids): Gentle chemical exfoliants with larger molecular structures like gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, providing mild exfoliation while enhancing skin hydration and strengthening the barrier.
- Non-Acid Enzymes: Bromelain (from pineapple), Papain (from Papaya) are some Proteolytic Enzymes which also break down the "glue" holding dead skin cells together allowing them to shed naturally and gently.
Chemical exfoliation tends to be more uniform and controlled than physical exfoliation, but overuse or high concentrations can lead to irritation and compromise the skin barrier.
Chemical exfoliants with acids are also known as chemical peels, exfoliating toners etc. Stronger / deep chemical peels are best performed under the supervision and guidance of a dermatologist or trained professional.
How Exfoliating Toners work
The skin is formed of cells called keratinocytes (“skin cells”) that arise from the basal layer. There, the cells are bound tightly to each other and to the deeper layers of the skin. As the cells move upwards towards the outer layers of the skin, the bonds between keratinocytes weaken. The life cycle of a keratinocyte is about 28-40 days during which time it detaches from the basal layer and moves upwards.
Chemical exfoliants, such as AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids), work by breaking the chemical bonds between keratinocytes in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. These chemical exfoliants dissolve the intercellular "glue" composed of desmosomes and corneodesmosomes, which hold dead skin cells together.
By weakening these bonds, chemical exfoliants promote the natural shedding of the outermost layer of skin, encouraging cell turnover and revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath.
Additionally, some exfoliants, like BHAs, penetrate deeper into pores, helping to dissolve excess sebum and prevent clogged pores. Motif’s Renew Resurfacing Peptide Toner with Lactic, Mandelic, and Malic acids provides chemical exfoliation enhanced with pea peptides and date seed extract to soothe any dryness, redness or irritation associated with the exfoliation.
Selecting the best exfoliator for your face
Choosing the right exfoliating agent depends on your skin type, concerns, and tolerance level. Here’s how to pick the best one for your face:
1. Identify Your Skin Type
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) has shared guidelines on how to pick the best exfoliant for your face-
2. Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation
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Chemical Exfoliation (AHAs, BHAs, PHAs) → Chemical exfoliation is typically gentler and more even and the strength is customizable. AHAs provide additional benefits such as reducing dark spots and pigmentation, BHAs help in acne control, and PHAs are hydrating. Lower concentrations up to 5% can be used safely at home however stronger peels should only be performed by a licensed medical professional.
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Physical Exfoliation (Scrubs, Microdermabrasion, Enzymes) → This relies on manual scrubbing addressing concerns such as flakiness while boosting blood circulation to the skin. However, it can be harsh if overdone and result in inflammation, aggravating pre-existing skin concerns. Selecting the right particles and tools and applying pressure gently while exfoliating is critical to avoid negative side effects. Physical exfoliation procedures done by a dermatologist are typically more controlled.
3. Pick the Right Strength
AHAs of up to 10 % strength and BHAs of up to 2% strength can be used safely. Some stronger products available over the counter have an increased potential to cause dryness and irritation.
4. Look for Additional Skin Concerns
Salicylic acid can help address additional concerns such as acne and AHAs such as glycolic acid can reduce pigmentation.
Guidelines: for the Safe Use of Exfoliants
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Face exfoliants should ideally be used once a week or fortnightly. The frequency can be increased depending on how products are tolerated.
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Start using products at a lower concentration and gradually adjust depending on tolerability.
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Avoid combining multiple exfoliants (e.g., AHA + Retinol on the same night) unless prescribed.
A Gentle Approach to Exfoliation
When supported with an effective, science-backed skincare routine, exfoliation enhances skin health by removing dead cells, improving product absorption, and promoting a smoother, more radiant complexion. While exfoliation is essential for maintaining radiant skin, and can offer some relatively instant results, it is equally important to be gentle, patient and have a long-term point of view.
Over-exfoliating can lead to irritation, redness, and even a weakened skin barrier. This can result in dryness, itching, frequent breakouts, and hyperpigmentation.
You and your skin are on the same team. Whether opting for physical or chemical exfoliation, always listen to your skin and adjust the frequency based on its needs. Curating a skincare routine for aging skin or healthy, glowing skin is about balance—nourish it, protect it, and treat it with care.
