NAD+

StructureMetabolismCellular EnergyCell LongevityCollagen ProductionSkin Density
Aims to support the skin's metabolic and repair capacity.
A coenzyme central to cellular energy and DNA repair that declines with age. Electron carrier for ATP; sirtuin/PARP-1 substrate (topical evidence emerging).
"The emerging potential of NAD+ precursors in dermatological health and anti-aging (review). Cosmoderma (2024).
beta-Nicotinamide mononucleotide enhances skin barrier function and attenuates UV-B-induced photoaging in mice. Antioxidants (2025).
Permeation of nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) in an artificial membrane: a cosmetic skin permeability model. J Cosmet Dermatol (2025)."
Monkey Fruit (Oxyresveratrol)

StructureMetabolismEven ToneCollagen Defense
Reduces excess pigment at the source.
A stilbenoid (Artocarpus lakoocha), a strong tyrosinase inhibitor. Competitively inhibits tyrosinase; scavenges free radicals.
Tengamnuay P et al. (2006). Artocarpus lakoocha heartwood extract: in-vitro anti-tyrosinase and in-vivo skin whitening. Int J Cosmet Sci.
Bakuchiol

StructureCollagen ProductionSkin ElasticitySkin Density
Retinol-like firming and turnover without the irritation.
A plant meroterpene (Psoralea corylifolia) acting on retinoid pathways. Upregulates type I/III/IV collagen genes and fibroblast activity.
"Dhaliwal S et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol.
Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. (2014). Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling. Int J Cosmet Sci."
Licorice Root

BarrierMetabolismEven ToneSkin Calm
Regulates tone and calms - a complementary brightening pathway.
Source of glabridin, a tyrosinase-inhibiting polyphenol. Inhibits tyrosinase without cytotoxicity; reduces PIH.
"Yokota T et al. (1998). The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Res.
Nerya O et al. (2003). Glabrene and isoliquiritigenin as tyrosinase inhibitors from licorice roots. J Agric Food Chem."
Ecklonia Cava (Algae)

StructureMetabolismCollagen DefenseSkin DensitySkin ElasticityCell Longevity
Potent antioxidant defense and structural protection.
A brown-algae extract rich in marine phlorotannins. Phlorotannins inhibit lipid peroxidation and MMP activity.
"Joe MJ et al. (2006). Phlorotannins in Ecklonia cava extract inhibit matrix metalloproteinase activity in human dermal fibroblasts. Life Sci.
Extracellular vesicles from Ecklonia cava and phlorotannin promote rejuvenation in aged skin (2024)."
Snow Mushroom

BarrierHydration Lock
Binds moisture like HA, with smaller, better-penetrating particles.
Tremella polysaccharides with high water-holding capacity. Holds water in a surface network; reduces TEWL.
Citation in preparation
Niacinamide

BarrierMetabolismBarrier IntegritySkin CalmEven ToneCellular EnergyCell Longevity
Rebuilds barrier, evens tone and supports NAD+ synthesis.
Vitamin B3 - versatile across barrier, tone and metabolism. Boosts ceramides; inhibits melanosome transfer; NAD+ precursor.
"Gehring W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. J Cosmet Dermatol.
Hakozaki T et al. (2002). Niacinamide reduces cutaneous pigmentation and suppresses melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol."
Azelaic Acid Derivative

MetabolismSkin CalmEven Tone
Regulates excess melanin with high daily tolerability.
A water-soluble azelaic-acid derivative bound to glycine. Normalizes overactive tyrosinase; anti-inflammatory, reduces PIH.
Breathnach AS. (1996). Melanin hyperpigmentation of skin: melasma, topical treatment with azelaic acid and other therapies. Cutis.
Rice Ferment (Sake)

BarrierBalanced Biome
Supports surface resilience, hydration and clarity.
A sake-yeast ferment of rice (amino acids, B vitamins). Postbiotics feed the microbiome; amino acids aid NMF.
* Rice ferment filtrate barrier function and hydration clinical studies. Additional citations in preparation.
Lactic Acid

MetabolismCell Renewal Even Tone
Drives turnover, smooths texture and evens tone; also hydrates.
The workhorse AHA of the blend, at active pH 3.5. Loosens corneodesmosomes; inhibits tyrosinase; humectant.
"Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol (1996).
Effect of lactic acid isomers on keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, stratum corneum lipid levels and barrier function. Arch Dermatol Res (1996)."
Wakame (Algae)

BarrierStructureCollagen DefenseSkin Calm
Marine antioxidant and soothing support.
A fucoidan-rich wakame seaweed extract. Fucoidan binds water and calms; fucoxanthin scavenges ROS.
"Anti-inflammatory effects of Undaria pinnatifida (wakame) fucoidan. Marine Drugs (2025).
Low-molecular-weight fucoidan promotes wound healing in a full-thickness dermal excision model (2017)."
Tocopherol

StructureMetabolismCollagen DefenseSkin Elasticity
Protects membranes and structural proteins from oxidation.
Vitamin E - the primary fat-soluble antioxidant in skin. Quenches lipid peroxyl radicals; recycled by vitamin C.
Traber MG, Atkinson J. (2007). Vitamin E, antioxidant and nothing more. Free Radic Biol Med.
Squalane

BarrierBarrier Integrity
Barrier support and light emollient comfort; carries actives.
A stable lipid mirroring skin's own squalene. Integrates into barrier lipids; non-comedogenic carrier.
Huang ZR et al. (2009). Biological and pharmacological activities of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules.
Shea Butter

BarrierBarrier Integrity
Cushions the barrier so cleansing doesn't strip lipids.
A fatty-acid-rich butter with anti-inflammatory triterpenes. Replenishes barrier lipids; triterpenes calm inflammation.
Akihisa T et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. J Oleo Sci.
Rose

BarrierStructureSkin CalmCollagen Defense
Calming, antioxidant support.
A polyphenol-rich botanical rose extract. Polyphenols scavenge ROS; flavonoids calm inflammation.
"A narrative review of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and other properties of Rosa damascena Mill. Food Science & Nutrition (2026).
Skin anti-inflammatory activity of rose petal extract (Rosa gallica) via reduction of MAPK signaling. Food Science & Nutrition (2018)."
Rapeseed

BarrierBarrier Integrity
Supports barrier comfort and active delivery.
A cold-pressed plant oil mirroring skin lipids. Linoleic acid replenishes barrier lipids; sterols calm.
Johansson A, Appelqvist L-A. (1978). Content and composition of sterols and sterol esters in low-erucic-acid rapeseed (Brassica napus). Lipids.
Plum Seed

BarrierStructureBarrier IntegrityCollagen Defense
Antioxidant support plus barrier softness.
A fatty-acid- and polyphenol-rich seed oil. Polyphenols scavenge ROS; fatty acids integrate with barrier lipids.
Valorization of Prunus seed oils: fatty acid composition and oxidative stability. Molecules (2023).
Pineapple Phytoceramides

Metabolism Cell Renewal Even Tone
Gentle enzymatic renewal and antioxidant brightness.
Whole-fruit pineapple (enzymes, fruit acids, vitamin C). Proteases and fruit acids ease shedding; vitamin C supports tone.
Trevisol TC et al. (2022). An overview of the use of proteolytic enzymes as exfoliating agents. J Cosmet Dermatol.
Persimmon Fruit

StructureMetabolismCollagen DefenseEven Tone
Antioxidant and astringent tone support.
A tannin- and flavonoid-rich fruit extract. Tannins/flavonoids scavenge ROS; mild astringency.
"An overview of dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Diospyros kaki (persimmon) and its phytoconstituents. Rev Bras Farmacogn (2017).
Tyrosinase-inhibitory polyphenols from the leaves of persimmon (Diospyros kaki). J Agric Food Chem (2011)."
Oat Kernel

BarrierSkin CalmBarrier Integrity
Calms irritation and supports comfort during renewal.
Colloidal oat (beta-glucan, avenanthramides), an FDA skin protectant. Avenanthramides inhibit NF-kB; beta-glucan films reduce TEWL.
"Kurtz ES, Wallo W. (2007). Colloidal oatmeal: history, chemistry and clinical properties. J Drugs Dermatol.
Fowler JF Jr. (2014). Colloidal oatmeal formulations and the treatment of atopic dermatitis. J Drugs Dermatol."
Orchid

BarrierHydration Lock
Forms a hydrating film for a plumper, softer surface.
High-molecular-weight orchid polysaccharides. Surface film binds water and slows evaporative loss.
* Orchid extract polysaccharide skin film and TEWL reduction. Additional citations in preparation.
Pea Sprout Peptide

StructureCollagen ProductionSkin Density
Supports collagen signaling during renewal.
Young sprout extract rich in signaling peptides. Growth-factor mimicry stimulates fibroblasts (preliminary).
Sprout extracts in skin care and hair growth: evidence and future opportunities. Applied Sciences (2026).
Pelvetia (Algae)

BarrierStructureHydration LockCollagen Defense
Marine hydration and antioxidant comfort.
A hydrating brown-seaweed extract. Polysaccharides bind water; marine antioxidants scavenge ROS.
Safety assessment of brown algae-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. CIR review (2018).
Moringa Seed

BarrierStructureBarrier IntegrityCollagen Defense
Barrier comfort, antioxidant support and active delivery.
A stable, oleic-acid-rich seed oil. Oleic acid aids penetration; tocopherols/phenolics protect.
"Expanding the anti-inflammatory potential of Moringa oleifera: topical effect of seed oil on skin inflammation and hyperproliferation. J Ethnopharmacol (2020).
Moringa oleifera seed oil formulation - physical stability and chemical constituents for enhanced skin hydration and antioxidant activity. Cosmetics (2021)."
Mondo Grass

BarrierHydration LockSkin Calm
Soothing hydration support.
A polysaccharide- and saponin-rich root extract. Polysaccharides bind water; saponins calm.
Ashok Kumar BS (2024). Ophiopogon japonicus: traditional uses, pharmacological and cosmetic applications - a review. Int J Pharm Qual Assur.
Milk Thistle

StructureMetabolismCollagen DefenseSkin ElasticityCell Longevity
Defends structural proteins and supports clarity.
Source of silymarin, a flavonolignan antioxidant complex. Inhibits lipid peroxidation; induces SOD/catalase.
Katiyar SK. (2002). Treatment of silymarin, a plant flavonoid, prevents ultraviolet light-induced immune suppression and oxidative stress in mouse skin. Int J Oncol.
Malic Acid

MetabolismCell Renewal
Supports the other AHAs and steadies formula pH.
A dicarboxylic fruit AHA and pH buffer. Adds AHA action; buffers pH; synergizes with other acids.
Taylor MB et al. (2013). Treatment of melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation with vitamin C iontophoresis and a mandelic/malic acid regimen. J Drugs Dermatol.
Luffa Fruit

MetabolismCell Renewal
Gentle mechanical smoothing that polishes rather than abrades.
Ground plant-cellulose fiber with rounded particles. Lifts loose surface cells by soft friction; biodegradable.
* Luffa cylindrica powder mechanical exfoliation characterization. Citations in preparation.
Lactobacillus Ferment

BarrierBalanced Biome
Supports the surface microbiome for a calm, stable barrier.
A postbiotic (fermentation byproducts, not live bacteria). Feeds beneficial species; organic acids maintain surface pH.
"Lee et al. (2023). Cera-Glow, ferment lysates of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus IDCC 3201, improve skin barrier function in a clinical study. J Cosmet Dermatol.
A lotion containing probiotic ferment lysate enhances skin barrier: a randomized self-control study. Sci Rep (2023)."
Kaolin

MetabolismCell Renewal
Lifts excess oil and debris - the mask step - without stripping.
A soft, mild mineral clay. Adsorbs sebum and particulates; gentle mechanical polish.
The scenario of clays' and clay minerals' use in cosmetics/dermocosmetics: a review. Cosmetics (2024).
Lecithin

BarrierBarrier Integrity
Reinforces barrier architecture and stabilizes delivery.
A skin-identical phospholipid emulsifier. Forms lamellar structures; carries actives through the barrier.
"Final report on the safety assessment of lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin. Int J Toxicol (2001).
Liposomes for topical use: a physico-chemical comparison of vesicles prepared from egg or soy lecithin (2013)."
Fructooligosaccharides

BarrierBalanced Biome
Selectively feeds beneficial skin microbes.
A short-chain prebiotic fiber. Fermented by good bacteria; supports SCFAs and competitive exclusion.
Prescott SL et al. (2017). The skin microbiome: impact of modern environments on skin ecology, barrier integrity, and systemic immune programming. World Allergy Organ J.
Glycerin

BarrierHydration LockBarrier Integrity
Draws moisture in and supports barrier function.
A highly hygroscopic natural humectant. Hydrates; aids lipid assembly; activates aquaporin-3 channels.
"Fluhr JW et al. (2008). Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions. Br J Dermatol.
Rawlings AV, Harding CR. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther."
Grape Seed

Barrier StructureBarrier IntegrityCollagen DefenseSkin Elasticity
Reinforces barrier lipids with antioxidant support.
A linoleic-acid- and polyphenol-rich seed oil. Linoleic acid feeds barrier ceramides; polyphenols scavenge ROS.
"Shawahna R et al. (2022). A grapeseed oil (Vitis vinifera) loaded dermocosmetic nanoemulgel improves facial skin biophysical parameters: split-face, placebo-controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol.
Kapcsandi V et al. (2021). Characterization of fatty acid, antioxidant and polyphenol content of grape seed oil from Vitis vinifera varieties. OCL."
Hibiscus Fruit

StructureCollagen Defense
Antioxidant support and surface clarity.
An anthocyanin- and organic-acid-rich fruit extract. Anthocyanins scavenge ROS; mild organic-acid surface renewal.
Potential of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. and hibiscus acid to reverse skin aging. Molecules (2022).
Erythritol

BarrierHydration Lock
Binds moisture with a light feel; stable at low pH.
A naturally fermented sugar-alcohol humectant. Hygroscopic; draws and holds water at the surface.
Loden M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol.
False Daisy

StructureCollagen Defense
Polyphenol antioxidant support for resilience.
An antioxidant botanical (Eclipta prostrata / Bhringraj). Coumestans/flavonoids scavenge ROS; protect skin proteins.
Antioxidant, antiaging and antimicrobial effects of Eclipta prostrata (false daisy) extract. J Soc Cosmet Sci Korea (2018).
Date Seed

StructureCollagen Defense
Antioxidant protection for long-term resilience.
A polyphenol- and proanthocyanidin-rich seed extract. Polyphenols scavenge ROS; proanthocyanidins shield collagen from MMPs.
"Kang M et al. (2020). Phoenix dactylifera (date) seed extract exhibits antioxidant effects and attenuates melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. Antioxidants (2020).
Efficacy of Phoenix dactylifera (date palm) creams on healthy skin. Cosmetics (2017)."
Cucumber

BarrierHydration LockSkin Calm
Cooling, hydrating comfort.
A classic soothing botanical (polysaccharides, amino acids). Polysaccharides hydrate; mild antioxidants soothe.
Whitening and hydrating properties of Cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract (2025).
Cordyceps Sinensis

StructureMetabolismCellular EnergyCollagen DefenseCell Longevity
Associated with mitochondrial and cellular-energy support.
A fungus rich in cordycepin and polysaccharides. Modulates adenosine/energy pathways (mostly in-vitro/oral).
Tuli HS et al. (2014). Pharmacological and therapeutic potential of Cordyceps with special reference to Cordycepin. 3 Biotech.
Chaga Mushroom

StructureMetabolismCollagen DefenseCell Longevity
Defends against the oxidative stress that drives aging.
An antioxidant-dense birch fungus (melanin, polyphenols, SOD). SOD activity and polyphenols neutralize free radicals.
Glamoclija J et al. (2015). Chemical characterization and biological activity of Chaga (Inonotus obliquus), a medicinal mushroom. J Ethnopharmacol.
Bearberry Leaf

Metabolism Even Tone
Adds a complementary brightening pathway for even tone.
Contains arbutin, a natural tyrosinase-inhibiting hydroquinone precursor. Competitively inhibits tyrosinase at its copper-binding site.
Maeda K, Fukuda M. (1996). Arbutin: mechanism of its depigmenting action in human melanocyte culture. J Pharmacol Exp Ther.
Beetroot

StructureCollagen Defense
Antioxidant support and tone clarity.
Betalain- and betaine-rich root extract. Betalains scavenge ROS; betaine supports cellular hydration.
Yasin M et al. (2020). Development, in-vitro characterization and assessment of cosmetic potential of Beta vulgaris (beetroot) extract emulsion. J Herbal Medicine.
Anti-inflammatory activity of betalains: a comprehensive review. Human Nutrition & Metabolism (2021).
Birch

BarrierHydration Lock
Light, breathable hydration support.
Mineral-rich cold-pressed birch sap. Natural saccharides and minerals support surface hydration.
Birch sap attenuates inflammatory cytokines and improves skin parameters in cellular and animal models of skin irritation. Cosmetics (2025).
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

BarrierBarrier Integrity
Reinforces barrier lipids and carries other actives in.
A lightweight, skin-identical coconut-derived lipid. Integrates into stratum-corneum lamellae; boosts active delivery.
Effect of an emollient emulsion containing 15% caprylic/capric triglyceride on the urocanic acid of the stratum corneum. Life (2023).
Mandelic Acid

MetabolismCell Renewal Even Tone
Slow, even exfoliation - accessible for sensitive skin.
A large-molecule AHA from bitter almonds. Larger size slows penetration; mild tone and antibacterial effects.
"Taylor MB et al. (2013). Treatment of melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation with vitamin C iontophoresis and a mandelic/malic acid regimen. J Drugs Dermatol.
Effects of topical mandelic acid treatment on facial skin viscoelasticity (2018)."
Gluconolactone

BarrierMetabolismCell RenewalHydration Lock
Gentle exfoliation plus humectant hydration - sensitive-skin friendly.
A large-molecule polyhydroxy acid (PHA). Slowly breaks corneodesmosomes; chelates calcium; binds water.
"Grimes PE et al. (2004). The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin. Cutis.
Green BA et al. (2009). Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids. Clin Dermatol."
Centella Asiatica

BarrierStructureSkin CalmCollagen ProductionSkin Density
Supports collagen, wound healing and barrier calming.
A triterpenoid-rich botanical (asiaticoside, madecassoside). Stimulates collagen via TGF-beta; inhibits collagenase and NF-kB.
"Bylka W et al. (2014). Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. Phytother Res.
Hashim P et al. (2011). Triterpene composition and bioactivities of Centella asiatica. Molecules."
Allantion

BarrierMetabolismSkin CalmCell Renewal
Calms visible irritation and softens the surface during active steps.
A soothing compound (originally from comfrey) with gentle keratolytic action. Speeds corneocyte shedding and damps irritant-induced inflammation.
"Araujo LU et al. (2010). Profile of the wound healing process induced by allantoin. Acta Cir Bras.
An investigation into the multifaceted mechanisms of action of allantoin in wound healing. J Am Acad Dermatol (2017)."
Ceramide NP

BarrierBarrier Integrity
Rebuilds the barrier seal and cuts water loss.
A skin-identical ceramide, ~50% of the barrier lipid matrix. Restores lamellar bilayer architecture; reduces TEWL.
"Coderch L et al. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. Am J Clin Dermatol.
Lynde CW. (2001). Moisturizers: what they are and how they work. Skin Therapy Lett."